February is my most loathed month. Like the last 10km of a marathon, you think it’s over but it’s really not, and there’s a good slog to go before the relief of the finish line. This time of year feels like that. Long, dark January is done finally, but we’ve had 4 months of dark and cold. Spring is almost within reach, but let’s face it – there’s a way to go yet. Maybe it’s the lack of daylight and the strong, primordial impulse to hibernate, but this time of year I crave sweet things, or rather sweet and special things in an attempt to inject some joy into the murky days. I have a coffee for you that I promise is going to be a shard of light in your morning.

I’m very pleased to say that Chelbesa is back and better than ever. This naturally processed coffee comes from the legendary region of Gedeb, due south from the town of Yirgachaffe. It’s sweet, fruity, and floral, with juicy raspberry, blueberry aroma, and a hint of strawberry milkshake.

Need a reminder of what “naturally processed” means? 

It means that once the coffee cherries are picked from the trees and sorted, they are left in tact to ferment for a period, before the fruit of the cherry is removed and discarded. This process, as well using much less water where resources in some areas of Ethiopia are scarce and precious, creates very pronounced fruity flavours and complex acidity that the seed of the cherry (what we call the bean) absorbs. 

Only carefully handpicked ripe cherries are selected during the main harvest season from November to January. In 2019, SNAP Specialty Coffee established a modern wet mill in Danche, a small hamlet within Chelbesa Village, to elevate processing standards. Equipped with ceramic fermentation tanks that retain heat and promote efficient fermentation, the facility enhances clarity and precision in the final cup. This meticulous approach ensures consistency, transparency, and the distinctive character that has made Worka Chelbesa one of Ethiopia’s most respected coffee origins.

When people talk about “the classic profile of naturally processed Ethiopia coffee”, this is what they’re talking about.

The first thing that hits you when you taste this coffee is a big pungent whiff of sweet florals in your face. Take a gulp and its deep and sweet, all chocolate covered raspberry and blueberry that for me is nostalgic of strawberry milkshakes. The acidity is complex and lingering with a citrus aftertaste. I genuinely go to bed excited about my first cup of this coffee the next morning.

You may have noticed that often Ethiopian coffees name the varietal as “Heirloom”. Chelbesa is indeed an Heirloom coffee, so what does this mean.

Just like in Central America, for example, coffee varietals may be named as Bourbon, Caturra or Catuai being amongst the most common, and these names denote the species of coffee plant. You can think of this as akin to grape varieties in Wine.

In Ethiopia, “Heirloom” essentially refers to indigenous but unclassified, Wild Arabica plants that grow at high altitudes in areas where coffee cultivation has long been established. Heirloom coffees are often characterised by their distinctive and complex flavours.

This is a coffee that will deliver something different from one brew method to another but I’m settling on the Aeropress and my favourite way to brew this coffee. I love the way it creates a deliciously silky, creamy mouthfeel. So grab an Aeropress and give this a try…